I vividly remember the moment when I, as a child, ordered Clam Chowder at a restaurant and something very much not New England Clam Chowder was put in front of me: Manhattan clam chowder. For the longest time, I just thought it was me who found the Manhattan version awful. When searching for a recipe to try for New England Clam Chowder, I came across James Beard’s opinion on the Manhattan Version. In his introduction to Miss Farmer’s Recipe for Rhode Island Clam Chowder his American Cookery:”This is the closest bridge I have found to that rather horrendous soup called Manhattan clam chowder. It is a sensible recipe and takes away the curse of the other, which resembles a vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped in it.”
Traditional clam chowder has the following narrative: Cook clams, chop clams, reserve cooking liquid. Render fat from salt pork, sauté onions in salt pork fat. Parboil potatoes for 5 minutes. Arrange onions in the bottom of a heavy sauce pan and top with a layer of half of the potatoes. Add the salt pork pieces, chopped clams, second layer of potatoes and salt and peppers. Cover with boiling water and cook. Add scaled milk, bring to a boil, add crackers soaked in milk and the reserved clam liquid. Lastly, add a bit of flour and butter that have been kneaded together, return to the boiling point and serve. You can find the above version in Fannie Farmer and other famous New England cookbooks. I agree with James Beard that it appears this recipe allows the clams to cook for too long. So, I came across a little recipe in Beard’s American Cookery that seemed easy, yet captured the spirit of the New England Clam Chowder. The recipe below was inspired by Beard’s “My favorite Clam Chowder” recipe from American Cookery.
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New England Clam Chowder
- Total Time: 60 minutes
- Yield: 6 servings 1x
Description
New England clam chowder is the undisputed champion of American soups — a thick, creamy broth enriched with salt pork, loaded with tender clams and chunks of potato, and served in a bread bowl if you are on a wharf in Boston. It was codified in New England fishing communities in the 18th century, and to this day, a fierce regional pride surrounds the recipe. Adding tomatoes is considered heresy north of Connecticut. The clam broth, built from steaming the clams open, is the foundation — without it, you are just making potato soup.
Ingredients
- 4 pounds littleneck or cherrystone clams, scrubbed
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1 cup water
- 4 ounces salt pork or thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 2 stalks celery, diced
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Oyster crackers for serving
- Fresh chives, snipped, for garnish
Instructions
- Place the clams in a large pot with the wine and water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Steam for 5-8 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally, until the clams open. Discard any that remain closed.
- Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth to remove any sand. Reserve the broth — you should have about 3-4 cups. Remove the clams from their shells and chop roughly. Set aside.
- In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, cook the salt pork over medium heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pieces are golden and crisp. Remove the cracklings with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- In the rendered pork fat, cook the onion and celery for 5-6 minutes until softened. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook the roux.
- Gradually add the reserved clam broth, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Add the potatoes, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15-18 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
- Reduce heat to low. Stir in the heavy cream and butter. Add the chopped clams and the reserved pork cracklings. Heat gently for 3-4 minutes — do not boil the chowder after adding the cream and clams, or the clams will toughen and the cream may curdle.
- Remove the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Season with salt and pepper. Let the chowder sit for 10 minutes before serving — chowder improves as it rests. Serve in warm bowls with oyster crackers and chives.
Notes
- The clam broth is the backbone of the chowder. Steaming fresh clams open rather than using canned clams makes a substantial difference in flavor. Strain the broth carefully to remove all sand.
- Salt pork is traditional and provides a deeper, more nuanced flavor than bacon, though bacon is an acceptable substitute.
- Do not boil the chowder after adding the cream and clams. Boiling toughens the clams and can cause the cream to break. Gentle heat is all you need.
- Prep Time: 10 mins
- Cook Time: 25 mins
- Category: Classic
- Cuisine: American
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I use fresh clams or canned clams for New England Clam Chowder?
Both work, but they serve different purposes. Fresh clams give you a briny clam juice to build the base, while good-quality canned chopped clams are convenient and consistent. Many home cooks use a combination of canned clams and bottled clam juice.
How do I keep the cream from curdling when I add it to the soup?
Add the cream at the end over low heat and do not let the soup boil after that point. Bringing heavy cream to a rolling boil causes it to break and separate.
What type of potato holds up best in chowder?
Waxy potatoes like Yukon Gold or red potatoes hold their shape during cooking. Russets will break apart and thicken the soup, which some people prefer, but they can turn grainy if overcooked.
