Exploring Asian Flavors with Chef Anthony Ricco

Photos by Lauren DeFilippo

Before enrolling in a Culinary Arts program at the Institute of Culinary Education, Spice Market’s Executive Chef Anthony Ricco was working as a prep cook at the China Grill. He says, “My brother forced me to go to ICE because I was holding on to the brochure for almost a year, and he knew I had talent in the kitchen, but I was wasting it. ICE helped me find my culinary voice by giving me access to quality product and excellent teachers who are very talented chefs.”

After graduation, Ricco worked at a restaurant in Long Island City, then found a position at Jean Georges, where he spent three years working every station in the kitchen. Then, he received an offer to work at one of Jean-George Vongerichten’s other New York restaurants, Spice Market.

When considering whether or not to take the position, Ricco recalls being motivated by one detail — or rather, one dish: tuna ribbons with chili tapioca, asian pear and lime in a chilled lime-coconut broth. Last month, fifteen lucky students had the chance to relive Ricco’s sense of culinary discovery, in a “Light Asian Flavors” class at his alma mater.

It wasn’t Chef Anthony’s first time teaching at ICE. This past winter, I was one of a handful of students who he taught to prepare the “Signature Dishes of Spice Market.” Despite the complexity of the restaurant’s recipes, it was clear that there were intensely flavorful components that I could recreate at home. From the restaurant’s signature chili oil to a spicy, tangy ginger vinaigrette or a crunchy garnish of garlic chips, each element was a clear and accessible entry into the processes by which professionals layer flavor to create a winning dish.

Needless to say, when I showed up for my second class with Chef Anthony, it was no surprise to see that I wasn’t his only repeat student. This time, I was charged with making white pepper ice cream and a spiced passion fruit simple syrup. Being more of a savory cook, it was a challenge outside my comfort zone, but involved techniques that I was eager to learn.

In fact, that’s where Chef Anthony’s strength lies. He understands that the flavors and culinary style he works with every day are foreign to most American home cooks, and makes sure that every student, no matter what recipe they are personally assigned, has the chance to learn the techniques behind the various elements of each dish. That’s how I ended up not only making ice cream and simple syrup, but also breaking down a chicken and a red snapper (both for the first time).

And of course, given that he manages a staff of more than sixty at Spice Market, it was no surprise that Chef Anthony was able to supervise and motivate our motley crew of amateur cooks to churn out such advanced dishes. After four hours of cooking, that was the ultimate reward: to be transported by pungent, spicy, sweet flavors to the far reaches of Asia—or at least, Spice Market, which is a destination in itself.

Tuna and Chili Tapioca with Asian Pear

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• Author: Adapted for home cooks from Spice Market
• Total Time: 65 minutes
• Yield: 4 servings (with leftover chili tapioca for up to 20 servings) 1x

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Description

Experience the vibrant flavors of Asia with this spicy tapioca dish, featuring a blend of toasted chilies and annatto for a rich, aromatic finish.

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Ingredients

Units USM Scale 1x2x3x

Chili tapioca (makes about 20 servings):

• 7 oz (200g) large pearl tapioca
• 5 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
• 2 ancho chilies, toasted and chopped
• 9 chipotle peppers, toasted and chopped
• 6 dried Thai chilies
• 4 tbsp (60 ml) annatto seeds
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) grapeseed oil
• 1 tsp whole cloves, toasted
• 4 cinnamon sticks, toasted and smashed
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) Sichuan peppercorns, crushed
• 4 tbsp (60 ml) salt
• 3 tbsp (45 ml) sugar
• 7 cups (1.68 L) water
• Chili oil, to finish (quantity to taste)
• 1 tsp salt, to finish

Lime-coconut broth:

• 5 stalks lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed, bruised
• 40 kaffir lime leaves, washed and roughly chopped
• 1 green finger chili, washed and chopped
• 3 cups (720 ml) coconut water
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) coconut milk
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) fresh lime juice, plus 3 tbsp (45 ml) to finish
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp salt

To serve (per portion):

• 3 oz (85g) sushi-grade tuna, cut into thin ribbons or small cubes
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) prepared chili tapioca
• 1/4 Asian pear, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch diamonds
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) jicama, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch diamonds
• 2 tbsp (30 ml) red bell pepper, char-grilled, peeled, and cut into 1/4-inch diamonds
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) scallion greens, thinly sliced on the bias
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) lime-coconut broth (chilled)

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Instructions

Chili tapioca:

1. Heat the grapeseed oil in a large, wide pan over medium heat. Add the shallots, ancho chilies, chipotle peppers, Thai chilies, and annatto seeds. Sweat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are golden, 10–12 minutes.
2. Add the toasted cloves, cinnamon sticks, Sichuan peppercorns, salt, sugar, and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook for 30 minutes to infuse.
3. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve or chinois, pressing on the solids; discard solids and return the liquid to the pan.
4. Bring the strained liquid back to a boil. Add the tapioca pearls and cook, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until the pearls are fully translucent and tender, about 20 minutes.
5. Finish with chili oil and 1 tsp salt. Taste and adjust seasoning. The tapioca should be spicy, slightly sweet, and very aromatic. Set aside until needed (keeps refrigerated for 3 days).

Lime-coconut broth:

1. Combine the lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, green chili, coconut water, coconut milk, 3/4 cup lime juice, sugar, and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and cook for 20 minutes, allowing the aromatics to infuse.
2. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve; discard solids.
3. Finish with the remaining 3 tbsp lime juice. Taste for balance — it should be bright, lightly sweet, and fragrant. Chill completely before serving.

To assemble each tartare bowl:

1. Char-grill the red bell pepper directly over an open flame or under a broiler, turning, until blackened all over. Place in a covered bowl for 10 minutes, then peel, seed, and cut into 1/4-inch diamonds.
2. Cut the tuna into thin ribbons or small cubes just before serving; keep refrigerated until the last moment. Season lightly with salt if desired.
3. In a chilled shallow bowl, arrange the tuna, pear diamonds, jicama diamonds, char-grilled bell pepper, and scallion greens in a composed or loosely piled presentation.
4. Spoon the warm chili tapioca alongside or nestled next to the tuna.
5. Pour the cold lime-coconut broth around the tuna and tapioca at the table (or just before serving) so the contrast of warm tapioca and chilled broth is immediate.
6. Serve at once.

Notes

• The chili tapioca and lime-coconut broth can both be made 1–2 days ahead and refrigerated.
• Use only sushi-grade tuna and keep it cold until the moment of plating.
• The contrast of the warm spiced tapioca and the icy citrus broth is intentional — serve immediately.

• Prep Time: 15 minutes
• Cook Time: 50 minutes
• Category: Appetizer
• Cuisine: Asian Fusion

Nutrition

• Serving Size: 1/2 cup
• Calories: 120
• Sugar: 1
• Sodium: 150
• Fat: 2
• Carbohydrates: 26
• Fiber: 3
• Protein: 2
• Cholesterol: 0

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