Ground goose sounds like a specialty item, but most good butchers carry it around the holidays, and ground duck works just as well here. These meatballs are German in character: anchovies in the mix for salt and depth, capers in the sauce for sharpness, lemon zest throughout. Nothing polite about the flavor. They’re simmered in beef stock, which keeps them tender and gives the sauce something to pull from. Serve them over wide egg noodles. A cold night. A good glass of something red.
How to Make German Style Goose Meatballs with Capers and Anchovies
The anchovy question
Two teaspoons of anchovy paste mashes invisibly into the goose and doesn’t taste fishy in the final meatball. It reads as depth and salt. Don’t announce it to guests who might object. Mash whole anchovies into paste if that’s what you have; five fillets is the right amount.
Onion first, always
Sweat the minced onion in duck fat until completely soft before adding to the meat mixture. Raw onion in a meatball stays crunchy and sharp in the center. Cooked onion disappears into the mix and makes the whole texture more uniform. Cool it before combining or it’ll start cooking the egg. 
Simmering in stock
Brown the meatballs in duck fat until a crust forms on all sides, then transfer to simmering beef stock. Don’t boil vigorously; a gentle simmer keeps them from tightening up. They need about 20-25 minutes in the liquid. The stock reduces into the caper sauce and ties everything together.
German Style Goose Meatballs with Capers and Anchovies
- Total Time: 60 minutes
- Yield: Serves 4
- Diet: Omnivore
Description
Savory goose meatballs simmered in a rich broth, then tossed in a vibrant caper sauce. A surprisingly easy, elegant weeknight meal.
Ingredients
- 2 tbsp duck fat or unsalted butter
- 1 cup (237 ml) minced yellow or white onion
- Kosher salt
- 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) ground goose or duck
- 0.25 cup (59 ml) dried bread crumbs
- 2 tsp anchovy paste, or 5 anchovies, mashed
- Grated zest of 1 lemon
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 0.5 tsp freshly ground white or black pepper
- 2 eggs
- 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
- 4 cups (946 ml) beef stock
- 3 tbsp duck fat or unsalted butter
- 0.5 cup (118 ml) minced yellow or white onion
- 3 tbsp all-purpose flour
- 2 tbsp capers
- 2 tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 2 to 4 tbsp sour cream
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- For the Meatballs:
- In a small frying pan, heat duck fat over medium heat.
- Add onion and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until soft and translucent; do not brown.
- Sprinkle with salt while cooking.
- Remove onion from pan and set aside to cool.
- If not using pre-ground meat: cut meat and fat into 1-inch pieces and place in a large bowl.
- Add cooked onion, breadcrumbs, anchovy paste, lemon zest, parsley, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper to the bowl.
- Fit meat grinder with fine die and grind the meat mixture.
- Add eggs and Worcestershire sauce; mix by hand.
- If using pre-ground meat: combine meat with all other ingredients and mix by hand.
- Line a baking sheet with waxed or parchment paper.
- Form meat mixture into small meatballs using a teaspoon, placing them on the prepared baking sheet.
- Pour stock into a pan large enough to hold all meatballs; a wide, deep sauté pan with a lid is ideal.
- Place stock over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer.
- Carefully add meatballs to simmering stock.
- Reduce heat to the lowest setting.
- Cover and cook gently for 25 minutes.
- Remove meatballs with a slotted spoon and set aside on a platter.
- Pour stock into a heatproof container and reserve.
- For the Sauce:
- Wipe the pan with a paper towel, set it over medium-high heat, and add duck fat.
- When hot, add onion and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until translucent; do not brown.
- Add flour, mix well, reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring often, for a few minutes, until the mixture is the color of coffee with cream.
- Add reserved hot stock gradually, stirring constantly.
- Continue adding stock until the sauce is the consistency of thin gravy (not as thick as Thanksgiving gravy, not as thin as soup).
- Return meatballs to the sauce and add capers.
- Reduce heat to low and heat until meatballs are heated through.
- Add parsley and remove from heat.
- Serve meatballs immediately.
- Serve sour cream and pepper separately for diners to add as desired.
Notes
- For richer flavor, use a combination of goose and duck fat for cooking.
- To make ahead, prepare the meatballs and freeze them on a baking sheet before transferring to a freezer bag. Thaw completely before simmering.
- Substitute ground turkey or chicken for the goose, but be aware the meatballs will be less rich.
- Prep Time: 20 minutes
- Cook Time: 40 minutes
- Category: Main Course
- Method: Braising
- Cuisine: German
Nutrition
- Serving Size: 1 cup
- Calories: 500
- Sugar: 5
- Sodium: 800
- Fat: 35
- Saturated Fat: 15
- Unsaturated Fat: 15
- Carbohydrates: 20
- Fiber: 5
- Protein: 40
- Cholesterol: 150
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use ground duck instead of ground goose?
Ground duck is a fine substitute with a similar richness and flavor. The texture and cooking times remain the same.
What does the anchovy paste do in the meatballs?
Anchovy paste adds a deep, savory umami flavor without any noticeable fishiness. It amplifies the meatiness of the goose and seasons the mixture more thoroughly than salt alone.
How do I know when the meatballs are fully cooked?
Brown them on all sides in the pan, then let them finish in the simmering gravy for about 20 minutes. Cut one open to check; the center should be cooked through with no pink remaining.
