How to Make Wild Mushroom Soufflé

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Here in Stockholm, where today we had our first frost, the wild mushroom season is drawing to a close. Here most of the mushrooms I see look damp and raggedy and the opportunity to stock up in time for winter is nearly gone.

Luckily, I am still eating mushrooms I preserved last spring, having stumbled upon both an enormous patch of beautifully fresh St. George’s mushrooms and a great technique for preserving them long-term in the freezer.

As always, you can swap pretty much any mushroom for the ones I used. If I’m buying from a shop, then I typically go for chestnut/cremini mushrooms, but use whatever you fancy.

Here the whole grains come in the form of rye flour, used to thicken the roux at the base of this hearty soufflé. If you can call a soufflé hearty!

I also use a few sourdough crumbs to line the dish to stop the mixture sticking and give it the best chance of a good rise, but they are a pretty minimal ingredient in the grand scheme of things.

I have been experimenting with swapping plain flours for whole grain flours with a variety of different dishes, but have been reluctant to try this with delicate dishes such as a soufflé.

But then I saw this recipe by Dan Lepard – one of my baking heroes. Today’s recipe is pretty solidly based on his with just a few minor tweaks. His uses blue cheese, which I am sure would be absolutely delightful, but I didn’t have any on hand, so I opted for ‘Parmesan’.

I also added a handful of fresh purple basil, as this year’s basil plants were calling out to be harvested before winter really sets in. If you have other cheeses or herbs in your fridge, they will almost certainly work just as well if you want to substitute.

There is a lot of talk about the difficulty of getting a good rise on your soufflé, but in my experience, as long as you whip your egg whites properly and use a correctly sized dish, you’ll be fine.

If you want a huge rise, make sure you fill your dish to about three-quarters full. I did not do this as I only had one suitable dish available, so although my dinner was fluffy and delightful, it was not particularly voluminous.

This meal serves two as a main course, but if you want to serve it as a starter you can also use four individual ramekins instead.

The rye flour and mushrooms are what makes this meal substantial. It is light and airy – the egg whites take care of that – but filling, flavourful and impressive enough for guests. Or for your beloved ones.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a soufflé difficult to make at home?

It requires attention to detail but is not as fragile as its reputation suggests. The main rules: do not open the oven during baking, and serve immediately.

What type of mushrooms work best in a wild mushroom soufflé?

Any combination of cremini, shiitake, chanterelle, or porcini gives good depth of flavor. Dry-sauté them to evaporate moisture before adding to the base.