Coffee Labs Concocts A Decent Sumatran

Bill Walsh tests Coffee Labs Roaster’s Sumatra Mandheling, and ends up with a decent cup of coffee.
By Bill Walsh

Subject: Coffee Labs Roasters
Coffee: Sumatra Mandheling
Rating: 3+ [see key]

When the topic of favorite coffee comes up, many people seem to throw out Sumatra as their top pick. Granted I am sure some of them actually have carefully weighed out that designation but for most, I think people just like the idea of getting their coffee from an exotic Pacific Island.

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Regardless of how much research people invest, Sumatra does actually produce some decent coffee. Recently, Roaste offered a chance to review one of the many coffees they purvey. Looking to try out a decent Sumatran (Africa and America have been dominating my cup as of late), I set my sights on Coffee Labs Roasters’ Sumatra Mandheling. Having had good experience with Coffee Labs prior and Roaste store credit, I glided quite quickly through Roaste’s checkout process and awaited my coffee directly from Coffee Labs.

Upon first arrival and my inspection, the beans were plump and medium-dark. I sampled the coffee via drip, french press and siphon.

The drip threw notes of pound cake, pepper, dark cocoa, a little molasses, some cinnamon, graham cracker and a little smokiness. The overall flavor was a little dark but with pungent sweetness amidst a medium to full body.

The french press held honey, rye, pepper, a little lemon, tobacco, vanilla and cinnamon. A slightly different cup but still a sweet, dark cup.

The siphon proved sweeter, with facets of honey and caramel, a little cashew, some sweet wine, black pepper, tobacco throughout, some apple and a olive oil. The brew had a medium body and a mellow profile.

All in all, Coffee Labs put together a nice Sumatran though the smoky and dark flavors seemed to detract from the other parts of the coffee in my opinion (maybe a lighter roast would do it). If you are on the lookout for medium/dark Sumatran, give Coffee Labs’ Sumatra Mandheling a whirl.

Note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

For more information on Bill’s cupping methodology, click here.