I have a rule when traveling: if the chance to fine dine presents itself, you take it. In Barcelona, that instinct feels even more justified. On a recent first visit to the city, I was reminded just how deeply gastronomy is woven into its identity, not only in its celebrated avant-garde kitchens but in the way that ingredients and thoughtful cooking are treated as a baseline rather than a luxury.

Set within the grand El Palace Barcelona, Amar Barcelona is a reminder of this city’s place among Europe’s great food capitals. Opened in 2022 with chef Rafael Zafra at the helm, the restaurant is guided by a simple belief: to love Barcelona is to love the sea. That idea shapes everything from a menu focused on seasonality to a dining room that pairs old-time elegance with something a little more contemporary. The service is quick, customized, and observant, and we appreciated that on a busy trip.

Catalan cuisine has a character of its own, shaped by both landscape and culture. Unlike the heavier stews of Spain’s interior or the fried flavors of the south, Catalan cooking blends mountain and coastal influences on the same plate. With the Mediterranean steps away, seafood naturally plays a central role. Fish, shellfish, and crustaceans are often simply prepared, allowing their freshness to do most of the work. There is little need to overcomplicate ingredients that were likely in the water only hours earlier, but we love when a restaurant like Amar Barcelona chooses to take creative liberties with the bounty.

The Menu

The menu moves between lobster and seafood stews to sea urchin and caviar served either à la carte or structured two-, three-, and four-course tasting menus. Despite its focus on the sea, the restaurant accommodates a range of appetites, including a section for heartier fare like steaks, roast goat, and schnitzel. A separate oyster menu spotlights the kitchen’s playfulness, with the likes of shellfish made Bloody Mary style or with a bright Ponzu sauce.

Our meal at Amar Barcelona began as all good ones do, with a generous bread and butter service featuring three distinct breads and a large scoop of whipped butter touched with salt. Two olive oils followed, each poured tableside: Oleum Naturale, was a sweeter, fruitier introduction, while Priordei, pressed from the same variety of olive, carried a spicy, peppery finish. Next came a series of plates: a dish of crunchy potatoes filled with foamed prawns was gulped down almost immediately while the foam still held its shape; cod beignets drizzled with brown sugar honey gave the spread some sweetness; and smoked mackerel was paired with ajo blanco (an almond and garlic sauce), with small tongs to make dipping it a little more elevated.

Starters at Amar Barcelona kick off with oysters prepared in the style of a Peruvian ceviche, dressed in a fun leche de tigre. Cantabrian anchovies arrive with a light olive pâté and tomato, best layered onto toast with a touch of sauce. The crayfish carpaccio draws on a Spanish tradition of savoring every part of the shellfish, where diners twist the tail, peel it, and enjoy the flavorful juices from the head. At Amar, those juices are pressed and caramelized with onion. The clams had a splash of vino fino from Andalucía, lending a rich salinity that echoed the sea. Hake loin followed, cooked and drizzled with a yellow sauce made from fish collagen, garlic, and olive oil, giving the dish a silky texture.

For the main, a whole fish took stage, served with a classic beurre blanc that added richness while letting the fish shine. The preparation unfolded tableside, where one server carved the fish and another completed the sauce in front of us, turning the moment into a little piece of theater. The roe was scooped out and plated alongside the fillets with a spoonful of the warm sauce. Of course, the dish wasn’t complete without a side of crispy homemade french fries.

The Wine

While it is hard to find a bad glass of wine in Barcelona, the selection at Amar Barcelona feels especially attentive. Their cellar holds more than 800 bottles, and our sommelier guided us through the list with a confidence that made the pairings feel personal rather than prescribed.

We tasted three wines across the meal. As Sortes, a Godello white wine from Galicia by Rafael Palacios, was crisp, fresh, and expressive, pairing perfectly with the lighter starters. L’Different, made from the native Sumoll grape in Catalonia, drank somewhat like a Pinot Noir but with a bit more edge, with cherry notes that held up well as the dishes grew richer. To finish, we had a 2011 Argentine blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Shiraz from a Málaga-born producer who settled in Argentina with Rioja in mind. It was deeper and more rounded, a natural fit for the heartier flavors toward the end of the meal.

Rooted in the rhythms of the Mediterranean yet unafraid of trying something new, the meal here feels both distinctly Catalan and modern. If Barcelona is a place that rewards those who dine well, Amar Barcelona makes a strong case for lingering at the table just a little longer.

Amar Barcelona
Website
El Palace Hotel, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes,
Eixample, Barcelona, Spain