White asparagus from Bassano del Grappa is a springtime institution in the Veneto, and the first time I ate it there, I couldn’t figure out why it tasted so different from the white asparagus I’d bought at home. Fresher, more tender, with a sweetness that didn’t need much help. Easy fix. The sauce they put with it in Bassano is essentially a sabayon built from egg yolks, olive oil, lemon juice, anchovies, and capers. It sounds involved, but it’s essentially a pressed egg yolk vinaigrette, and it takes about ten minutes once the asparagus is cooked. The anchovies are not aggressive in the finished sauce; they dissolve into something savory and round that you wouldn’t necessarily identify as fish.
How to Make White Asparagus of Bassano del Grappa
Cook the asparagus upright
Standing the bundled stalks in a narrow pot with the tips above the water line lets the stems simmer while the delicate tips steam. Eight minutes is usually right, but test with a fork near the base. So good. The stalks should be tender with no resistance.
Build the sauce from sieved yolks
Pressing the hard-boiled yolks through a fine sieve before adding lemon and oil gives you a smooth, emulsified sauce without a blender. Drizzle the oil in slowly while stirring constantly, the way you would for a mayonnaise. 
Rinse the anchovies and capers well
Salt-cured anchovies need a proper rinse under cold water before chopping, and the capers need the same treatment. Leftover brine from either one can make the sauce too sharp before you’ve had a chance to balance it.
White Asparagus of Bassano del Grappa
- Total Time: 23 minutes
- Yield: Serves 4
- Diet: Omnivore, Pescatarian
Description
Tender white asparagus spears tossed in a vibrant lemon-anchovy sauce. A sophisticated yet simple side dish.
Ingredients
- 1 lbs (454 g) asparagus
- 3 large hard boiled eggs, yolks separated
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice
- 0.5 cups (118 ml) extra virgin olive oil
- 2 salt cured anchovy filets, boned, rinsed and chopped
- 1 tbsp (15 ml) capers, rinsed and chopped
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Instructions
- Tie asparagus stalks in small bunches and stand them upright in a high, narrow pan, using mason jars to fill extra space if needed. Add water to two-thirds the length of the stalks (tips above water) and simmer until tender, about 8 minutes.
- For the sauce: Press hard-boiled egg yolks through a sieve into a small bowl.
- Stir in lemon juice.
- While constantly stirring, slowly drizzle in olive oil.
- Chop egg whites; add most to the sauce, reserving some for garnish.
- Add anchovies and capers; season with salt, pepper, and additional lemon juice to taste.
Notes
- For perfectly tender asparagus, ensure the water is gently simmering, not boiling.
- If you don’t have capers, a teaspoon of finely chopped cornichons makes a good substitute.
- Store leftover sauce separately from the asparagus in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
- Prep Time: 15 minutes
- Cook Time: 8 minutes
- Category: Side Dish
- Method: Boiling
- Cuisine: Italian
Nutrition
- Serving Size: 1 cup
- Calories: 150
- Sugar: 2
- Sodium: 250
- Fat: 12
- Saturated Fat: 2
- Unsaturated Fat: 10
- Carbohydrates: 10
- Fiber: 2
- Protein: 5
- Cholesterol: 100
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use green asparagus if I can’t find white?
Yes. Green asparagus works well with this sauce. It has a slightly more grassy flavor, but the preparation and cooking method are the same. Just reduce the simmer time by a minute or two since green spears tend to be thinner.
What do the anchovies add to the sauce?
They dissolve into the dressing and provide a savory, salty depth without tasting fishy. If you’re not a fan, you can reduce them to one fillet or leave them out entirely and add a bit more salt instead.
How do I keep the sauce from breaking?
Add the olive oil in a very slow, thin stream while stirring constantly. The egg yolk and lemon mixture needs to absorb the oil gradually to emulsify properly. If it does break, whisk in a teaspoon of warm water to bring it back together.
