Artusi’s Sour Cherry And Cinnamon Sorbet

What is not to love about cherries? They are pretty, delicious, healthy, and lend themselves well to so many dishes, particularly desserts.

What is not to love about cherries? They are pretty, delicious, healthy, and lend themselves well to so many dishes, particularly desserts. They are also the cheerful symbol of summer’s long-awaited arrival.
By Emiko Davies

In late spring, cherry season begins to roll around on the Bel Paese and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit the pretty town of Lari in the province of Pisa for its annual Cherry Festival. For two weekends at the end of May and the beginning of June the old town fills up with night time market stalls splashed in festive red, taking over the town’s only other claims to fame, the domineering medieval castle and the excellent Martelli family pasta shop.

Stalls of fresh cherries are accompanied by other cherry delights from cherry-filled cakes, pies and jams to liqueurs, cherry-scented beer and even cherry vinegar – a tart vinegar similar to apple vinegar but with a deep, brilliant pink colour that stains food the colour of beetroot. The clear favourite of the festival, however, are the  frittelle di ciliegie, which are essentially little doughnut holes dotted with fresh, sweet cherries. Freshly made by a band of hard-working octogenarians in cherry-patterned aprons gathered around a bubbling cauldron of hot oil, these are basically little pieces of heaven, deep-fried and covered in sugar.

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Before the crowds poured in, I immediately picked up a box of amarene – sour cherries. A small cherry with thin skins the exact colour I dream of finding in a lipstick (a vibrant, vermilion red), sour cherries certainly live up to their name, as even very mature cherries are as sour as lemons. Like lemons, they also  make gorgeous, mouth-watering desserts and are even well suited to savoury dishes. In Italy, sour cherries are usually made into jams, liqueurs or preserved in syrup for spooning over gelato.

With the spoils that I took home from the festival I made a quick sorbetto di amarane, sour cherry sorbet, and a couple of jars of cherries preserved in syrup, in order to prolong my personal cherry season as much as possible. I will be waiting impatiently for one month before finally opening and tasting the cherries in syrup, but the sorbet takes literally minutes to make, then a few hours of freezing before it can be delightfully and promptly devoured.

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Sour Cherry & Cinnamon Sorbet


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  • Author: Emiko Davies adapted from Pellegrino Artusi
  • Total Time: 15 minutes plus freezing time
  • Yield: 6 servings 1x

Description

This fresh and fruity sorbet, inspired by Artusi’s 1891 handbook, features sour cherries with a hint of cinnamon, creating a delightful balance of tartness and spicy sweetness.


Ingredients

Units Scale
  • 2 lb (1 kg) of sour cherries
  • 1 cup (225 g) of sugar
  • Just under 1 cup (200ml) of water
  • 1 cinnamon stick

Instructions

  1. Take a handful of the cherries and gently wash them and cut them in half to take out the seed. Place them together in a small pan with the cinnamon stick and about 50 grams of the sugar and gently heat for about two minutes, or until the sugar is dissolved and the cherries begin to cook slightly, creating a syrup. Take them off the heat and set aside to cool.
  2. With the rest of the cherries, place them in a sieve or colander sitting over a bowl and squeeze or lb the cherries with a pestle to separate the skins and seeds (which can then be discarded) from the juice, collected in the bowl below.
  3. Place the juice, the water and the rest of the sugar in a saucepan and, stirring often, let the mixture come to the boil. Add the cinnamon stick from earlier and allow the mixture to boil for two minutes. Take off the heat, remove the cinnamon stick and let cool. If you have an ice cream maker, you can now place the cherry mixture into the ice cream maker until done. Without an ice cream maker, simply place the mixture into a plastic container with a lid in the freezer. When frozen, use a fork to loosen the sorbet (it will be quite soft). Just before serving, stir through the halved cherries from earlier to get a ripple effect and serve, as Artusi suggests, in small glasses.

Notes

  • For best results, use fresh sour cherries.
  • If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can freeze the mixture in a shallow container and stir every 30 minutes until it reaches a sorbet consistency.
  • Store the sorbet in an airtight container in the freezer for up to a week.
  • Prep Time: 10 minutes
  • Cook Time: 5 minutes
  • Category: Dessert
  • Cuisine: Italian

Nutrition

  • Serving Size: 1 serving
  • Calories: 150
  • Sugar: 34
  • Sodium: 2
  • Fat: 0
  • Carbohydrates: 38
  • Fiber: 2
  • Protein: 1
  • Cholesterol: 0

 

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why are the cherries processed in two different ways for this sorbet?

A handful of the cherries are halved, briefly cooked with the cinnamon stick and 50 g of sugar to create a lightly syrupy cherry mixture, then set aside. The remaining cherries are pressed through a sieve to extract pure juice, which becomes the sorbet base. At serving time, the reserved halved cherries are stirred in to create a ripple effect — as Artusi’s original recipe suggests.

Can I make this without an ice cream maker?

Yes — the recipe provides both methods. Without a machine, pour the cooled cherry-sugar mixture into a plastic container, freeze until solid, then loosen with a fork (the notes say it will be quite soft). Stir through the reserved halved cherries just before serving and serve in small glasses as Artusi suggests. The notes also say you can stir every 30 minutes during freezing to achieve a better sorbet texture.

Where does this recipe come from, and who was Artusi?

This sorbet is adapted from Pellegrino Artusi, a 19th-century Italian food writer whose cookbook “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well” (1891) is considered a cornerstone of Italian culinary tradition. The author discovered this recipe while attending a sour cherry festival in Lari, in the province of Pisa, where she bought fresh amarene (sour cherries) and made this sorbet the same day.

View Comments (9) View Comments (9)
  1. Artusi was a genius, there’s nothing more to say about him. ;)
    Do you know what, Emiko? Though I’m Tuscan and live in Prato, I’ve never been to Lari Cherry Festival. That’s awful, I know, but I promise I’ll go next year! I can’t miss all those frittelle!!! :D

  2. Heavenly! I adore sour cherries and this recipe is just perfect! I just made my first sorbet yesterday and my first 2nd experience with an ice cream maker. The flavors are unmatched with anything you can purchase at a traditional grocer.
    Love this :)

    1. I agree! I don’t have an ice cream maker yet (it’s on my list) but I’m experimenting with recipes that work without one – like this one! It’s a great way to play with flavours!

  3. It sounds like it was a lovely festival. I love cherry season and look forward to it every year. Cherry beer is great as I’m sure the vinegar is too. Your sorbet looks so refreshing and a great way to celebrate cherry season.

    1. Thanks! The cherry vinegar is something special – I’m planning on trying some interesting recipes with it, it’s just such a beautiful colour!

  4. This is great and refreshing way of enjoying sour cherries. The season is just getting started in Croatia too, I love them and can’t wait to make delicious strudel with them. I’m saving this recipe too, have to give it a try

    1. Thanks Tamara! A strudel sounds like a divine way to use sour cherries, simple tarts are also very popular here. I’ll definitely be using them wherever I find an excuse!

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