At Chef Guo, you’ll be transported from the hectic concrete jungle of Gotham to the serenity of an opulent East Asian sanctum with a simple push of a doorbell.
You can always count on New York City to deliver a new and unexpected culinary experience. A notable one on the east side of midtown Manhattan is a 19-course Chinese imperial meal prepared by award-winning Master Chef Guo Wenjun. This unique experience may set you back a pretty penny, but nowhere else will you be transported from the hectic concrete jungle of Gotham to the serenity of an opulent East Asian sanctum with a simple push of doorbell.
Guests are greeted at the door by a dedicated server who begins the literal white-glove service by introducing the space that Chef Guo meticulously curated to resemble a majestic courtyard. Dark carved wood panels flank impressive works of art and ancient replicas from the chef’s personal collection. Bold colors are subdued by quiet lighting creating a vibe reminiscent of a Wong Kar-wai movie, but more sumptious. When the table is ready, guests are escorted by soft classical Chinese music and their server to silk-cushioned throne-like chairs and their awaiting first courses.
From the moment you sit down, the echelon of dining introduces itself as quite elevated and special. Gilded cloches painted royal yellow set the stage and help build anticipation for the meal to come. The Five Cold Hors d’oeuvres found above the covered dish represent different taste profiles and hint at the precision about to be revealed. These introductory courses are paired with a subtle wine and tea – both white. (Later, two other special teas and a glass of red wine are paired with appropriate courses). Once the decorative dome is removed, a painterly scene appears – Butterfly Falls in Love with the Flower. It’s illustrated with ingredients as finely prepared as they are placed. This dish will make diners hesitate before they let their chopsticks disturb the alluring composition. Once eaten, the components of the dish, along with the geometric cold bites that accompany it, whet your appetite with their quiet yet distinguishable flavors. Each bite seemed to require some level of meditation to properly appreciate Chef Guo’s intentions. The carefully sourced organic ingredients are scrupulously prepared (at times days in advance) to showcase how his mastery of Chinese Imperial cuisine can be embraced by modern palates with Western sensibilities. Sips of the tea and wine between bites supported this mindful tasting.
This is how we ate the entire 19-course meal because the dishes warranted conscious consuming. Standout courses like the Caviar and Tofu, the Wagyu Beef, Braised Morels and Double Mushrooms, and the Mustard Greens, Black Rice and Lobster Tail were all meticulously plated, thoughtfully displayed, and skillfully executed. Here Chef Guo’s command of fine-dining was on display and it was evident why his “imperial” cuisine is worthy of royalty and heads of state.
Dishes such as the creamy seafood soup, Buddha Jumps Over the Wall and the tender Flame Smoked Duck Breast were bolder and richer in flavor and well-deserving of their dramatic presentations.
Palate cleanser courses and the desserts were as intentionally made as the main dishes and treated with as much flourish (if not more) than their savory counterparts. If you like semi-sweet, bright and clean flavors delivered through crisp, custardy, and gelatinous textures, these dishes will not disappoint.
Throughout the meal, our server was percipient and attentive. She had a high regard for Master Chef Guo and his vast knowledge and experience. She never missed an opportunity to convey the respect and care he has for the history of the cuisine, the ingredients, and his guests; though that was apparent through the food and the entire experience.
This may be a once-in-a-lifetime meal that may not appeal to everyone. But if you want to feel regal and are looking for a dinner unlike any other, make sure you taste Chef Guo’s food in this exquisitely curated way. It’s worth it.
Chef Guo can be found on the ground floor of The Randolph House luxury residences (135 E 50th St, New York, NY 10022) and is accessible by ringing a doorbell at the entrance. The Restaurant is open Tuesday to Sunday, with only two seatings a night, one at 6:00 pm and another at 8:30 pm.
