I read Crazy Rich Asians1 by Kevin Kwan, the current selection of the Cook the Books club, in just a few days. It is a modern version of a Victorian novel set mostly in Asia, particularly the island state of Singapore.
When Rachel and Nick, the protagonists, arrive in Singapore, they are greeted by Nick’s bet friend, Colin, and his fiancée, Araminta. Together, they go to eat at one of Singapore’s hawker centers. I have never been to Singapore, but I learned about hawker centers and the characteristics of Singaporean food thanks to the paper Lucey Bowen wrote for the 2017 Oxford Food Symposium: “Singapore: Landscape of Loss, Cuisine of Comfort.” I was therefore not surprised by the heated discussion that erupts among the friends when deciding where to go to offer Rachel her first taste of Singaporean food.
Fittingly, the novel ends with another heated discussion about the same topic, this time between Nick and Peik Lin, Rachel’s Singaporean college friend. Rachel’s mother is at a loss about the exchange, but Rachel reassures her: “Let them be, Mom. Let them be. This is just how they all are.” 
The intensity of feelings reminded me of food discussions in Italy: food is at the heart of our identity. That is one reason why I approach preparing a dish from a different tradition with as much respect as I can, not only as a set of ingredients prepared in a certain way, but also as the celebration of a culture. I don’t have a baseline flavor nor an emotional connection to the dish: I know that what I create is a personal version, infused with the joy of discovery.
In reading about Singaporean dishes with a focus on vegetarian options2, I was taken by popiah, fresh spring rolls with jicama3, a dish whose preparation brings people together. As the rolls should be assembled and eaten right away, I imagined a group of friends around the table making popiah and eating while debating whose mother had the best recipe.
I had to make my own, right? I read a number of recipes for popiah filling and settled for something I knew I would like: lots of vegetables, eggs and tofu (tante verdure, uova e tofu). “The filling for this dish must have turnip (also known as jicama or yam bean). Beyond that, the choice of other ingredients is based on your personal preference.”5
The dish requires some investment of time, but you can prepare the various elements ahead and then place them on the table for the fun part: assembling, rolling and eating.
I made more vegetable filling than I needed, knowing that I could use it also in other ways (for example, I turned some of it into filling for a delicata squash). I made a smaller amount of other ingredients, knowing that my popiah-making party would be a party of one. Adjust the quantities to your needs and don’t worry about leftovers. It is more important to pay attention to some details I learned during my experience.
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Popiah: Jicama Spring Rolls
- Total Time: 75 minutes
- Yield: Makes 12 1x
- Diet: Vegetarian, Omnivore
Description
Fresh jicama and vibrant veggies make these spring rolls a delightful appetizer or light meal. Easy to assemble, perfect for sharing.
Ingredients
- 12 popiah wrappers
- 12 ounces (340 g) jicama
- 5 ounces (142 g) carrots
- 5 ounces (142 g) Savoy cabbage
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 garlic cloves
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) coconut milk
- 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 2 eggs
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) water
- 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
- A pinch of freshly ground black pepper
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- coconut oil
- Firm tofu
- One head of butter lettuce
- 4 spring onions
- 4 garlic cloves
- Sunflowers sprouts
- A handful of peanuts
- Chili sauce
Instructions
- Prepare the filling
- Peel the jicama, slice each half thinly, then cut into matchsticks.
- Scrape and rinse the carrot. If fresh and thin, halve lengthwise then slice into half moons; otherwise, grate using the extra-coarse side of a grater.
- Quarter and thinly slice the cabbage.
- Warm a wok over medium heat (approximately 350°F/177°C). Add olive oil, then garlic. Cook for 1 minute while stirring, then add jicama. Stir, add carrots, stir again, cover, and reduce heat. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, adding water if needed to prevent sticking.
- After 30 minutes, add cabbage, cover to wilt. After 1 minute, uncover, stir, add coconut milk, stir well, cover, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender. Sprinkle with sea salt, stir, and adjust seasoning to taste.
- Break eggs into a bowl, whisk lightly with a fork. Add water, salt, and pepper; whisk briefly.
- Warm a well-oiled 10-inch/25-cm skillet over medium heat (approximately 350°F/177°C). Pour in eggs, tilting to spread evenly. Cook over low heat until set. Loosen edges with a spatula. Flip, remove from heat, transfer to a plate, cool, roll, and cut into thin strips.
- Warm a bit of olive oil or coconut oil in a small skillet. Pan-fry tofu slices on both sides until golden. Transfer to a plate, slice thinly, and cut into matchsticks.
- Wash and drain lettuce leaves; remove thickest portion of each rib.
- Cut off spring onion roots; thinly slice white and light green portions (reserve green tops). Warm a small skillet, add oil, then onions. Cook gently, stirring, until tender.
- Warm the skillet again, add oil, then garlic. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring, until aromatic.
- Assemble the popiah
- Place all ingredients in containers on the table.
- To make one roll, place a wrapper on a plate (with a corner pointing towards you if square). Spread a thin layer of hot sauce on the center, then fried garlic on the bottom half.
- Layer filling on the bottom half of the wrapper, near the corner. Place a lettuce leaf crosswise, then 2 tablespoons of vegetable filling, a few strands of frittata and tofu, some sprouts, spring onions, and peanuts, all crosswise.
- Fold the bottom corner to the center, then right and left sides to form an envelope. Fold from the closest side, tucking the filling, and roll away from you.
- Bite into your roll or slice into quarters.
Notes
- For easier rolling, lightly dampen the popiah wrappers with water before filling.
- If you don’t have Savoy cabbage, substitute with Napa cabbage or even finely shredded romaine lettuce.
- Store leftover filling in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
- Prep Time: 30 minutes
- Cook Time: 45 minutes
- Category: Main Course
- Method: Stir-Frying
- Cuisine: Southeast Asian
Nutrition
- Serving Size: 1 roll
- Calories: 250
- Sugar: 5
- Sodium: 300
- Fat: 12
- Saturated Fat: 4
- Unsaturated Fat: 6
- Carbohydrates: 35
- Fiber: 5
- Protein: 8
- Cholesterol: 50
Frequently Asked Questions
What is jicama and where can I buy it?
Jicama is a starchy, mildly sweet root vegetable with a crunchy texture similar to water chestnuts when raw. It is commonly found in Latin American grocery stores, Asian markets, and the produce section of larger supermarkets.
What are popiah wrappers and can I substitute them?
Popiah wrappers are thin, soft crepe-like wrappers used in Southeast Asian fresh spring rolls. Rice paper rounds (soaked briefly in water before use) are the most accessible substitute.
Does jicama need to be cooked before using in spring rolls?
In this recipe the jicama is cooked briefly with the other filling ingredients. Raw jicama can also be used and gives a crunchier texture.
How do I keep the spring rolls from getting soggy?
Make sure the filling is cooked and cooled before rolling, and avoid overfilling. Serve them immediately or store loosely covered in the refrigerator for up to a few hours.
