A speakeasy-style sushi restaurant opens its doors in the subterranean below Hong Nail Spa on 21st Street.
In a city of omakases tucked at every crevice, Sushi by Scratch stands out by marrying tradition with creativity in a way that’s hard to come by. There’s a ‘come as you are’ attitude that strips away the formalities often tied with high-end omakases. Here the mood is easy-going, interactive and fun. The camaraderie behind the counter is magnetic, with lighthearted banter between the team and encouraged interaction with guests. But of course, the focus is on the fish.
As one of New York City’s most anticipated openings of 2024, Sushi by Scratch brings the celebrated touch of husband-and-wife chef duo Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee, whose Scratch Restaurants have earned Michelin stars for their expertly curated tasting menus and intimate dining experiences. With 21 restaurants in tow, including outposts in L.A., Miami, and Austin, the Scratch empire was due for its Manhattan opening.
“This is arguably one of the finest cities in the world for food when it comes to the diversity, quality, and innovation you can find in one concentrated place […] Opening a permanent fixture in New York City has been a goal for us since we started with this concept” say the Lees.
The Experience
There are only 10 seats at this Flatiron location, and with three seatings each night (5:00pm, 7:15pm, and 9:30pm), it means only 30 patrons eat here every day. Despite it, there’s still a see and be seen element to all of Sushi by Scratch’s restaurants.
The 17-course dinner is priced at $245 USD per person, rivaling many of the omakases around New York City. The experience feels personalized from the start, with detailed arrival instructions texted to you on the morning of your reservation. Guests are invited to join a complimentary pre-dinner cocktail and canapé 30 minutes before dinner begins. Set in a dimly lit lounge, surrounded by flickering candlelight, the ambiance immediately sets the speakeasy vibe for the evening ahead.
The night’s course of events is displayed in chalk behind the chefs. Guest names are similarly personalized at their seats – an iconic Sushi by Scratch stamp you’ll find at all of their locations.
The Dishes
The omakase-inspired tasting menu while at first might not seem like a traditional approach to omakase, is celebrated for Chef Lee’s innovative takes on high quality cuts of fish.
The tasting menu includes dishes like a Hamachi (Yellowtail) painted yellow with sweet corn pudding and topped with a sprinkle of breadcrumbs; an Akami (Tuna), the leanest part of the tuna, aged for 6 days; and a Jumbo Scallop finished with homemade ponzu, lemon and sea salt from Bali. An uncommon find in most omakases is the wild caught Japanese jellyfish course, prepared simply with soy sauce and grated wasabi that highlight its glass noodle-like texture.
Lee plays with an array of unique ingredients like sweet corn pudding, fresno chili, and fresh pineapple. Expect to be presented with fish cured in cherry blossoms or wrapped in sake-soaked nori, both of which you’ll be equally as impressed by. While rich in unexpected toppings, the fish are still flown in twice a week from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market, making it the best of the best.
Lee’s signature Roasted Bone Marrow nigiri is a showstopper in both taste and theatrics. As a substitution to butter, he takes bone marrow and torches it to melt the fat that’s then dripped onto his freshwater eel. The result is a rich, buttery yet nutty flavor that lingers on your palate long after its consumed.
To end on a high note, patrons are served Chef Margarita’s Matcha Bon Bon as the final course, an ice cream infused with makrut lime, encapsulated in a matcha white chocolate shell and topped with toasted sesame shortbread cookie. The cold bite is skillfully paired with a hot green tea brewed in plum wine, smoked lavender honey, and yuzu.
As far as drinks, you’ll encounter cocktails with matcha green tea salt rims, beer served in traditional Masu cedar boxes, and sake poured precisely to the meniscus. The beverage program, led by Sake Sommelier Gavin Humes, stands out for its three distinct pairing options (ranging from $105 to $125). Guests can opt from an all-sake experience, a Japanese whiskey lineup, or a combination of both that also includes beer and micro-cocktails.
Sushi by Scratch Restaurants
922 Broadway, New York, NY
Wednesday – Sunday, seatings at 5:00pm, 7:15pm, and 9:30pm nightly
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