Coming off a summer when Argentine football or soccer fans gave New Yorkers plenty to cheer about, the timing felt right for dinner at Palermo, an Argentinian steakhouse inspired by its namesake neighborhood in Buenos Aires that opened its newest location in Soho this summer.
Palermo’s Soho restaurant joins locations in Hell’s Kitchen and Gramercy, giving New Yorkers another place to get acquainted with Argentina beyond football. With Hispanic Heritage Month in October in the U.S., the timing offers another reason to do exactly that. Perhaps while raising a chimichurri martini with friends and eyeing the grilled skirt steak, empanadas and panqueque con dulce de leche still to come.
Bringing Buenos Aires to Soho
Palermo takes its name and some of its inspiration from the Buenos Aires neighborhood known for its restaurants, bars and nightlife. The Soho location is its third in Manhattan and is led by founder Orhan Cakir, Executive Chef Carlos Barroz, a Córdoba native, and Wine Director Jorge Albarracin.
Inside, exposed brick walls and an ornate pressed ceiling give the dining room plenty of character. Oversized chandeliers hang above crisp white tablecloths and deep blue banquettes, while little gold lamps cast a warm glow over each table. And just in case you’ve somehow forgotten you’re in an Argentinian steakhouse, mounted cattle skulls look out over the room.
You didn’t necessarily need to be watching the matches this summer to know when Messi scored. The cheers around New York usually gave it away, often followed by chants of “Olé, Olé, Olé, Olé.” Argentina ultimately made it all the way to the World Cup final, giving fans another summer of reasons to wear the blue and white.
Drinks
For something a little less expected, start with the Chimichurri Martini, a playful nod to one of the country’s most recognizable steak accompaniments. Made with Tito’s vodka and a dirty chimichurri infusion, it arrives looking much closer to a classic martini than a glass full of green herbs, finished with blue-cheese olives. The result is savory without being overwhelmingly herbal, and a great way to start the meal. Of course, there is also Malbec. If you’re planning on steak—which you likely are—it is an obvious pairing, though white wines are among the offerings too.
Appetizers
At Palermo, the beef empanadas are understandably among the popular starters, filled with hand-cut beef, hard-boiled egg, olives and scallions. But if a large piece—or several pieces—of beef are coming later, perhaps try the corn empanadas instead. Or you can do both. The corn version comes with sweet corn, butternut squash, red pepper and Gouda. The filling is creamy with a noticeable sweetness all tucked inside a crisp shell.
Another good appetizer to choose, the grilled octopus. It arrives curled around the plate with aji amarillo and a scoop of Russian potato salad. The octopus is thick and smoky with plenty of char.
Then there is the tuna tartare. It comes with avocado purée, crispy quinoa and watermelon leche de tigre. There is a lot happening in one bite: soft tuna and avocado, crunch from the quinoa and a fruity acidity from the leche de tigre. It is good, you should get it.
And don’t overlook the complimentary breadbasket. An assortment of different breads arrives with a bright red pepper dip, giving you a mix of soft and crisp textures. It is very easy to keep reaching a piece.
Mains
When you say Argentina, steak comes to mind almost as quickly as Messi. And for good reason. It’s a big part of how Argentines gather and eat, particularly around an asado, where different cuts are cooked over fire and shared around the table.
There are several cuts to choose from at Palermo, with the skirt steak and picanha being two good places to start. Skirt steak is the leaner of the two, with a pronounced beefy flavor and plenty of char from the grill. Picanha is richer, thanks in part to its characteristic fat cap.
The skirt steak comes with roasted peppers, with chimichurri and salsa criolla served on the side. Medium-rare or medium is a good bet for keeping the meat tender and juicy while still getting those smoky, charred edges from the grill. Try a bite on its own first, then add some chimichurri for a sharper, herbier contrast.
Sides are ordered separately, with potatoes, vegetables and salads among the offerings. Steak and potatoes are a classic pairing for a reason, and Palermo’s Russian potato salad is a good match. Another option are the roasted beets. Their earthy sweetness is paired with tangy goat cheese, coconut yogurt making them brighter between bites of richer meat.
Palermo’s main offerings extend beyond beef, with seafood and chicken available too. But if this is your first visit, it would be hard to pass up the steak.
Dessert
Go for an Argentine classic like the beautifully done panqueque con dulce de leche. A long, thin crepe rolled around dulce de leche stretches across the plate, topped with freshly sliced banana and a generous dusting of powdered sugar. It’s sweet. It’s delicious. If you have or don’t typically have a sweet tooth, you won’t regret the decision.
Palermo Soho Argentinian Bistro
55 Grand Street, Soho, New York City
