In a city where Thai restaurants are a dime a dozen, the heart of Manhattan wasn’t where I expected to find authentic street-cart flavors, but I was pleasantly proven wrong.
Since my first bite of Pad Thai in the rolling hills of Chiang Mai nearly a decade ago, Thai food from the eye of Thailand has reigned as one of my all-time favorites. And yes, I fear that I must make that distinction because Thai food elsewhere doesn’t always hit the same. These days I reserve my dose of this cuisine almost exclusively as a takeout category for days I have that hankering. Yet, my recent visit to an unassuming corner of Manhattan has completely reawakened my perspective on dining in.
The Atmosphere
Stepping into Sabai Thai feels like entering a parallel universe, far removed from the hustle of Midtown Manhattan. Lotus fountains and golden statues decorate the room, while staff are outfitted in Chut Thai, the traditional attire of Thai royalty. The ambiance is warm and moody, with flickering candles and ornate trinkets scattered about.
The only NYC-reminiscent detail about the restaurant is how many tables can strategically fit in the 2,800 square-foot space. Regardless, there are plenty of crevices that feel private. And rest assured, unlike many establishments, this one does not rush you out after your last bite.
The creative force behind the menu is Chef Mingmitr Eddy Amnuaypanich, a native of Central Thailand. His culinary journey began in his mom’s kitchen and eventually led him to renowned institutions like PONGSri and Kelly & Ping. Chef Mingmitr’s experience is expansive, and it shines through his thoughtfully crafted menu. You’ll quickly notice how he skillfully finds a balance between authentic Thai flavors, local NYC ingredients, and the latest in innovative techniques.
The Food
When people talk about menus that make it impossible to decide what to eat, Sabai Thai is the type of place that comes to mind. The indecision starts with the appetizers. You’ll likely gravitate towards the last item on the list—the Sabai Sampler—which gives you a taste of everything. The sampler features chicken satay, fried chicken dumplings, spring rolls, calamari, and curry puffs, all served with a plum sauce and a lightly spiced peanut sauce.
In the long list of entrées, expect to find Thai comfort classics like the Som Tam, a Thai papaya salad decked with green papaya, string beans, tomatoes, carrots, and chili. The Massaman Curry is another worth writing home about. The flank steak we opted for was cooked to perfection, and the curry was rich, silky, and boldly spiced. Served with a side of crispy yet soft roti canal bread, it was a welcome swap to the usual white rice. Of course, we soon came to realize this is most definitely not a place that tones down its flavors to cater to a broad audience – and we appreciated that!
The Extras
The Mango Sticky Rice is unsurprisingly a hot commodity across patrons, so be sure to place your order for one in advance, because they do fly by the end of the night. With coconut cream and fresh mango artfully cut into a floral masterpiece, it’s almost too pretty to eat. Another favorite was the Chocolate Roti, a medley of condensed milk, topped with chocolate syrup. It’s reminiscent of street cart desserts you’ll find traversing Thai corners, and for that reason alone, it’s a must.
Each drink is a work of art, often topped with delicacies like slices of dragon fruit or lychee. You can thank beverage extraordinaire, Demetrius Butler, for the clever concoctions – many paying tasteful homage to famous Thai cities and flavors. We sang the Koh Pha Ngan‘s praises – a Roku house-infused raspberry gin with rosemary and egg whites, with a slightly floral and fruity blend. The menu also sports an enticing selection of mocktails – think matcha with fresh pandan leaf extract or lemonades made with butterfly peas.
Fit for Grand Central commuters, date nighters, theatre goers, and even business meetings, there is a corner of this space and dish on the menu that seems fit for everyone. Don’t let its Midtown location fool you – it really is as authentic as it comes.
Sabai Thai
Website
432 Park Avenue South, New York, NY
