Yingtao opened in 2023, and within a year earned a Michelin star, an unusually swift ascent for a first-time restaurant from husband-and-wife duo Bolun and Linette Yao. In a city where Chinese food is still largely understood through the lens of takeout culture, Yingtao set out to explore something deeper: the philosophy, technique, and storytelling embedded in Chinese cuisine, presented through the structure and pacing of contemporary fine dining.

Rather than making Chinese food “fancy,” Yingtao applies the same intention long afforded to other global cuisines; small-format courses, precise execution, and thoughtful progression, while drawing from traditional practices like steaming, braising, pickling, and preservation. Fermentation and acidity play a quiet but essential role, creating balance and depth without relying on heat.

Named for Bolun’s late grandmother, and the Mandarin word for “cherry”; Yingtao reflects a deeply personal vision. It’s a space where cultural memory, modern technique, and New York energy converge, offering a forward-looking expression of Chinese cuisine that feels both rooted and refreshingly new.

The Interior

Inside Yingtao, the mood is sultry. Set in a trendy Hell’s Kitchen space, the interior is complete with black marble countertops, brass chairs, and deliberate splashes of scarlet that nod to the restaurant’s cherry motif. A curated ’90s hip-hop playlist blasts through the room, reinforcing its young energy with the likes of Biggie and Drake. We were seated at the counter, front row to the action: the galley kitchen is completely open to the dining room, transforming a meticulous service into a quiet performance as five chefs move with focused precision.

The Tasting Menu

The eight-course tasting menu is a journey not designed to fill you up but rather open your palate and mind to what fusion food really can be. Here, the creative process begins with some sort of memory, flavor profile or a single ingredient, its then built outward. That’s why something as simple as the first dish, the Spring Roll, deceptively set the tone for the meal. Each bite lingers, finishing with a bit of heat, while visible saffron threads rest on top of a bed of sesame seeds, signaling early on that this is a menu designed to unfold thoughtfully rather than overwhelm.

The second course reimagines the Bao through the lens of traditional steamed mantou, or the Chinese steamed bun. The main difference between a bao and a mantou, being that mantou is a dough wrapped around a filling that can be sweet or savory. In this case, the airy buns are filled with truffled sweet potato purée, then squid-ink-fried to give the exterior a crisp edge. Far from your average Bao bun, this one was also topped with fresh uni. At no point could I predict the texture of what I was about to eat, and that’s what makes this menu really stand out.

After a round of Fluke, made better with a chili oil dropper, followed by my favorite dish of the night, Jiao Zi or soup dumplings in a corn and black truffle broth, finished with meticulously placed edible flowers. The Trout was another standout. Rooted in the Chinese philosophy of ‘gentle cooking,’ Hudson Valley steelhead trout is poached in its own smoked oil, lightly torched, and set in a sake–Shaoxing beurre monté, then finished with celtuce and trout roe. The celtuce may seem unconventional, but its clean crunch brings a balance to the dish.

Finally, the Wagyu course was equally delicious. Drawing inspiration from Hongshao; the red-braised pork tradition that balances soy, sugar, aromatics, and Shaoxing wine; the dish unites classic Chinese braising with modern charcoal grilling. The wagyu is layered with a snow fungus and thinly sliced pickled pears, paying homage to Chinese preservation techniques, with a little bit of acidity.

At Yingtao, Chinese cuisine is more re-centered than it is reimagined. The result is a tasting menu that honors memory, and asserts that Chinese fine dining is right where it should be.

Yingtao
Website
805 9th Ave, New York, NY
Hours: Tuesday – Saturday, 5:00PM – 10:00PM