Twenty8 NoMad: A Slice of New York in London

Truffle chicken, a towering seafood platter, a negroni featuring a guava & cheese pastry and an impressive martini menu — all set inside a modern-day palm court.

Twenty8 NoMad is where a New York attitude meets London’s elegance, and somehow, the pairing just works. The restaurant captures the easy synergy between two cities that have long shared a cultural pulse. Even its name nods to this connection: Twenty8 is a tribute to its addresses on both sides of the Atlantic: 28th Street in Manhattan and 28 Bow Street in London.

Tucked beneath the 91-room NoMad London hotel, Twenty8 NoMad is stylish but not stiff. Think Art Deco meets cocktail lounge, with a warm buzz in the air. When we dropped in on a Thursday night, the crowd was casually chic in flowy dresses, open-toed sandals, and relaxed button-ups.

The Vibe

Step into Twenty8 NoMad and you’re transported to a modern-day palm court with a touch of 1940s glamour. The space is an ode to the golden age of afternoon tea, reimagined for today. The large atrium is filled with tall palm trees and layers of greenery woven throughout rattan furniture, earthy tones, and eclectic trinkets. It feels like you’re outside, even when you’re not.

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Palm courts were once a staple of grand hotels, designed for mingling and leisurely social gatherings. Here, that spirit is revived with a new energy, perfectly at home in the heart of Covent Garden, inside what was once the historic Bow Street Magistrates’ Court.

At the culinary helm is Bryce Shuman, with Zak Gregoire leading the kitchen. If the name sounds familiar, it should, we first raved about Shuman’s work after visiting Sweetbriar in Manhattan, where live-fire cooking took center stage. That same vibe is on full display here, thanks to a custom-built, eight-foot wood-burning hearth that anchors the dining room. It’s dramatic but cozy, setting the tone for a meal that feels both elevated and inviting.

The Food

The menu at Twenty8 NoMad is steeped in New York nostalgia, brought to life through the lens of a classic French Brasserie, and most importantly, shaped by the personal inspirations of chefs Shuman and Gregoire. There’s a dry-aged steak that nods to the legendary New York chophouses, grilled flatbread inspired by Shuman’s early days working in one of Little Italy’s beloved pizzerias, and market-fresh crudités reminiscent of early mornings at Union Square Greenmarket. The dishes are familiar, beloved, and deeply personal, but always with a thoughtful twist.

Starting things off with a standout: West Country Mussels. Generous in portion and served with their shells turned upright, the mussels are bathed in a rich, flavorful green curry broth and served with burnished roti for soaking it all up. We leaned heavy on the seafood side of the menu, but the Lamb Tortellini was another tempting appetizer. A word to the wise: starters are substantial, so plan to share if you want to save room for mains.

Now, the Seafood Tower was another showstopper that unexpectedly stole the whole evening. Towering and artfully arranged, it’s a love letter to Chef Zak’s Nantucket roots, bringing together the best of the British Isles and the American East Coast: live Orkney scallops, razor clams, oysters, and more.

Then there’s the Lobster Pasta. It’s everything you want in a comfort dish – al dente noodles coated in a luscious lobster butter, topped generously with chunks of lobster. It’s finished simply with chives and cracked black pepper, allowing the richness to speak for itself. Elsewhere, the Truffle Chicken Breast is layered with black truffles, chicory and madeira sauce, a nod to one of NoMad New York’s most iconic dishes, and a fitting addition to the London outpost.

Dessert stays classic, but often with a clever spin: Chocolate Profiteroles, reimagined as a more decadent version of your usual bite-sized cream puff. A single large profiterole centers the plate, stuffed with vanilla ice cream and dusted with cacao nib crumble; it’s served with a rich pour of warm chocolate sauce. Decadent and delicious, and a great example of the small twists that make the menu interesting.

The Drinks

The cocktail list is playful and rooted in New York’s drinking culture past and present, but with a savory twist. The Negroni features Ford’s Gin with a splash of coconut, served alongside a guava and cheese pastry. A Tequila Sour is recast with tomato water, basil and a burrata cordial. But the martini menu might just be the highlight. Tracing the drink’s evolution from its classic origins to modern interpretations, the lineup includes the Twenty8 Martini: a dirty martini served with a sidecar carafe and blue cheese-stuffed olives. It’s over the top in the best way, and exactly what you want it to be.

Whether you come for the cocktails, the seafood, or the taste of New York in London, Twenty8 NoMad delivers on all fronts. It’s a place that feels both familiar and fresh. Worth the reservation.

Twenty8 NoMad
Website
28 Bow Street, London U.K.

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