The Eaton and Palisades fires are now contained, but the aftermath is devastating. At least twenty-five people dead, entire communities destroyed, an environmental scar that will take years to recover and millions in losses are the main problems. And somewhere down that terrifying list, the hospitality industry fights to stay afloat and survive.
Not long ago, producers, farmers, chefs and the hospitality industry in general were finally leaving behind a devastating pandemic that made us all reconsider our lives and even made us think that the end of fine dining was upon us. Now, California faces a third blow (with the second being the writer’s strike that paralyzed L.A) that could end hundreds of businesses. Restaurants (and everyone that depends on them) are fighting to stay afloat after the fires that started on January 7th and not only destroyed entire neighborhoods, but also forced tens of thousands of residents out of their homes in massive evacuations.
The second week of January was all about helping and saw restaurants of all levels, from street food to Michelin, helping out and offering free meals and refuge to evacuees, fire fighters and first responders. But the harsh reality came when it took time to decide between helping out and surviving, and when chefs and their teams, if they were not evacuated or dealing with a human or a material loss, realized that there were no guests coming and none would come anytime soon. 
Now over a month after the beginning of the fires, the industry is fighting not only to help the city and their communities, but also to survive. Charity events and dinners like Chefs Love LA, on February 27th, are just an example of the industry’s response. For one night only, some of Los Angeles’ most celebrated chefs will come together at Lawry’s The Prime Rib Beverly Hills to raise money for World Central Kitchen, a global organisation founded by José Andrés providing meals in response to crises, and Restaurants Care, a non-profit that has supported restaurant workers in need since 2017. The main event, a seven-course dinner, will be prepared by an outstanding lineup of chefs, including Josiah Citrin, Daniel Boulud, Nyesha Arrington, Ludovic Lefebvre, Javier Plascencia, and Suzanne Goin, amongst many others.
Other initiatives like Dine LA Restaurant Week are starting to give some temporary relief to the situation. This event takes place twice a year and showcases Los Angeles as a premier dining destination while highlighting the diversity of culinary experiences L.A. has to offer and this time, for each Dine LA reservation made, LA Tourism and Banc of California will be donating to the American Red Cross. Valentine’s day also represents a mirage in the near horizon, creating another special boost of bookings and visits to restaurants thirsty for guests, but after that, the future seems unclear.
The Industry talks:
With 30 years of experience in the industry, Los Angeles chef and restaurateur Josiah Citrin has made his Michelin-awarded restaurants Citrin and Mélisse institutions of the West Coast. Josiah, who also owns Charcoal, Dear John’s, Dear Jane’s and Augie’s On Main weighs in: “The first three weeks were a complete disaster for everyone. And even though Dine LA has been a good relief, we truly don’t know what will happen next or after Valentine’s day. We have done everything we can by feeding fire fighters, collecting clothes and food from the community and giving it back, participating in charity events… But our own situation is quite worrying.”
Running a restaurant in California is getting more and more difficult and too expensive. Even very busy restaurants can’t cover costs and can’t risk losing one table a day, and restaurants not even near the fire were down forty or fifty percent of what they usually do, so I’m afraid that we’ll see a lot of places closing down soon on top of the ones that were completely lost to the fires”
The list of burned restaurants is chilling and includes new openings and city landmarks that have been open for decades in Altadena, Malibu, and Pacific Palisades. Restaurants like the Reel Inn in Malibu, opened in 1986, are also asking their communities for help and using social media to stay connected to those loyal guests that have been coming to their now destroyed restaurant for almost forty years by creating go found me pages and asking for donations to rebuild. Other restaurants and bars like Cholada Thai and Rosenthal Wine Bar and Patio were also affected by the fires.
”It has been gratifying to discover how many people’s lives have been touched by The Reel Inn. We have been deeply moved by your photos and memories ; please keep them coming, as they are buoying us up during this dark time. With love and gratitude, Andy and Teddy Leonard”, write the owners of this Malibu landmark.
When a crisis like this one happens, it’s difficult to understand every angle, and the media has played a big role in this emergency. Not only traditional and culinary media, but also socials. Maria Nguyen, founder and Creative Director of The Art Of Plating and culinary expert explains: “It’s been incredibly devastating to witness the impact of the wildfires, not only on residents but also on the city’s restaurants and their employees. The industry already operates on slim margins and faces high costs, so when guests aren’t coming in or cancel reservations and events, it creates a huge ripple effect.
About the media’s coverage of the industry’s issues, Maria gives a second great reflection: “As someone who works in media, I also feel conflicted about promoting restaurants, especially when so many have lost their homes, businesses are closing, and service industry workers are struggling to make ends meet. It’s a hard balance between supporting the industry and the reality of the loss that so many are facing. Having already seen the city go through the pandemic, I just know if everyone plays a part in supporting local establishments however they can through reservations, takeout, donations, or through awareness, we will be able to make it to the other side. Every effort counts right now.”
Jhonatan Cano, hospitality strategist and partner at Michelin-starred restaurants highlights the importance of a strong community in the culinary world: “The situation is bad, but it is incredible to see the unity of the industry in moments like these. From things like Jose Andrés and World Central Kitchen sending first responders and troops there, to restaurants and chefs all over the United States doing different events and dinners to raise money for different organizations, or the guys from chef’s table doing events all over the US to help, what has impressed me the most is to see how strong of a community we are in moments of crisis.”
Aitor Zabala is a Catalan chef now based in California who rose to fame after the meteoric success of his restaurant Somni in 2018. Then, the chef made headlines after earning two Michelin stars in less than a year. But even so, he was one of the ones that couldn’t survive the first blow of the pandemic and ended up having to close the restaurant. Now, after reopening in November of last year, he’s facing this new emergency and feeling the impact in the guest flow. He explains: “The wildfires have been devastating—not just because of the destruction they’ve left behind, but because of the emotional impact we still feel. They have taken homes, forced families to leave everything behind overnight, and left a lingering sense of loss that doesn’t just disappear when the flames die down. The city is still affected, and we, as part of this community, feel it every day.”
“It’s not just that people are going out less. There is real pain, a deep uncertainty that weighs on everyone. When life is disrupted in such a profound way, going to a restaurant stops being a priority. People spend less, consume less, because they have more urgent worries. And for an industry that already operates on a fragile balance, with the extreme costs of running a restaurant in California, this only makes survival even harder.”
Aitor closes with a bitter reality: “A restaurant is not just a place to eat. It’s a space to gather, to disconnect, to enjoy. But when people aren’t okay—when the city isn’t okay—that energy shifts, and you feel it in every empty table, in every quieter-than-usual service. In the end, we are not separate from what happens around us. And right now, what surrounds us is a community still trying to put itself back together.”
There are many ways to help, donate or assist people in need right now. As for the restaurant industry, helping can be as simple as going to your favorite restaurant in California or to special dinners like CHEFS LOVE LA. The second round of tickets for this special dinner will be available on February 15th and you can contact community@restaurant-solutions.com to be placed on the waiting list.
