New Jersey has quietly been carving out a name for itself as an unexpected culinary destination of sorts. The state has become home to a new wave of James Beard nominees, high-end restaurants, and a growing collection of eclectic food experiences drawing attention from food enthusiasts.
One of those rising stars is Nur-E Gulshan Rahman, the chef behind Korai Kitchen, a cozy, unassuming gem off the PATH train in New Jersey’s Journal Square. In 2024, Gulshan Rahman was nominated for a prestigious James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic region.
Affectionately known as “Amma”—the Bengali word for “mom”—her warm presence makes you instantly feel at home. You’ll often see her beaming as she moves around the restaurant between courses, eager to engage with patrons and hear their thoughts on everything they’re tasting. With no formal culinary training, Amma transformed decades of cooking for her own family into a dream realized at age 61: opening her very own restaurant, with dishes as a representation of her many memories.
While the tri-state area is home to a sprawling Bangladeshi diaspora, it’s rare to find a restaurant serving truly authentic Bangladeshi food—at least not in the way Korai Kitchen does. The family-run spot prides itself on offering homestyle Bangladeshi cuisine, staying true to traditional flavors and customs you’ll find at home. What started as a humble spot has quickly become a regional favorite, consistently drawing waitlists and even the reason UberEats added a ‘Bangladeshi’ category to their roster.
“I absolutely love feeding people, so I sometimes can’t believe I get to do this everyday for work,” Gulshan Rahman said. “It makes me feel good to know that I am sharing a part of myself through my food. When people eat my dishes, they’re tasting my memories, my passion, and love for my craft.”
Amma’s story is brought to life by her daughter, Nur-E Farhana Rahman, whose vibrant energy and storytelling add the perfect touch to your evening. Formerly a management consultant, Nur-E transitioned into the restaurant industry to support her mother’s dream. Today, she runs the behind-the-scenes operations that make the restaurant such a success. The mother-daughter duo, neither of whom set out to conquer the restaurant world, together have become a dynamic force leaving an impression everywhere they go.
The Experience
From basmati rice bags lining the floor to repurposed containers of dahl on the shelves, the inside feels much like being in my own mom’s kitchen. Vintage Bangla Coke bottles filled with fresh-cut flowers adorn the tables, and hand wipes on each plate remind diners to: eat with your hands.
We recently experienced the renowned 8-course tasting menu at Amma’s Dawat dinners. “Dawat”, which means “invitation” in Bangla was inspired by the family’s fond memories of long feasts with loved ones.
The intimate and interactive dinner encourages connection – not just with the food but through jiving with fellow diners and hearing the vivid stories of Nur-E’s childhood. Fondly known as a marathon rather than a sprint, set aside at least three hours to savor the parade of dishes. And don’t worry about leaving hungry either—you’ll take home a goodie bag filled with enough leftovers for a second meal that tastes even better the next day.
The Tasting Menu
While the menu is spun as an 8-course affair, expect to more realistically indulge in some ten dishes each time, as Amma often throws in a few extra plates from the heart. The menu remains a mystery until the very last moment, with Amma constantly tinkering with the details to ensure each guest enjoys a unique experience every time they enter. Nur-E combs stories throughout the night, explaining that Bengalis eat meals in courses, and in true fashion, you need to eat the whole meal to truly understand.
The first course is a Bhortha Spread, or a potpourri of vegetables like pumpkin and potatoes, all mashed with shallots, mustard oil, and fresh green chiles. Arranged on a banana leaf and served along with fresh white rice, you’ll be tempted to eat it all, but pace yourself. Like clockwork, the next courses arrive one by one: an assortment of lentils, fried eggplants, coconut curry, and Chringi Mas (Bengali Prawn Malai Curry) to name a few. The first half of the menu is an ode to Bangladeshi households everywhere, with staples you’ll find in kitchens globally. Just as you start to fill up, Nur-E will remind you that the main courses are about to begin, and here is where you see Nur-E Gulshan Rahman’s talent come to life.
A famous saying in Bengali, “Macher Bhater Bengali,” which loosely translates to “fish and rice make a Bengali.” Bangladesh is often referred to as the “Land of Rivers,” and fish is generally a staple in the diet. It’s only fitting that Korai Kitchen only serves native river fish imported directly from Bangladesh. The Rui Macher Jhol, or Bengali Fish Curry, is a signature spiced fish stew. It’s a simple concoction that’s somehow nostalgic and comforting in every bite. Expect nothing less than a fresh serving of rice with each plate that’s brought out. Rice brings the flavors out in every dish, often adding as a vessel to brighten or tone down the dish it’s paired with. Other courses that followed included a short rib beef curry, tuna kabobs, and goat korma.
The star of the night was the Chicken Roast with Pulao. It’s typically a dish handled by the old masters for occasions like a 1,000-person wedding. But Amma found her stride with this one, putting her own spin on the classic with fall-off-the-bone chicken coated in a nutty, buttery curry, topped with fried onions and slivered almonds.
Of course, the final course was dessert. We were tickled by the Mishti Doi — a custard-like, fermented yogurt made in a clay pot and sweetened with jaggery. Achieving the perfect cheesecake texture takes almost nine hours of careful monitoring and stirring, so it’s safe to say this dish is a labor of love.
The restaurant is BYOB, and we enjoyed our meal alongside a bottle from Auburn Road Vineyards, another New Jersey native. Their dry rosé was the ideal pairing for the night’s sweet and savory dishes.
By the time I left the restaurant, I felt like part of the family. We even joined in celebrating Nur-E’s 67th birthday, with the restaurant coming together to sing her a heartfelt “Happy Birthday.” When I asked her why she chose to work on her birthday, she simply replied, “There’s nowhere else I’d rather be today.”
Korai Kitchen
576 Summit Avenue, Jersey City, New Jersey
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