Ambra Meda selects the most appealing name from her gastronomic map of Denver. Turns out that’s a good tactic.
By Ambra Meda
From my Denver‘s map of gastronomic recommendations, I select the most appealing name and head to D Bar Dessert, supposedly the “favorite getaway for those who love dessert.”
When my taxi stops in front of its red bricks facade, decorated with flowers and outdoor seats, my hopes heighten.
The place looks really nice and I move in, ready to indulge in the endless variety of sweets that my mind has already imagined.
As I reach the display, I realize that this time the name doesn’t match the offer. “Dessert” doesn’t stand for “unlimited variety of pastries and cakes’, but it just happens to be the title of a prismatic eatery, that serves a complete selection of food, from gourmet salads to modern tapas.
I ask the waitress to get me their signature dish and she arrives with a plate of Steak and Frites ($15).
USDA Prime Flat Iron seasoned in shallot red wine butter and accompanied by Garlic Parm Frites.
The meat is juicy, soft and well flavored by the grains of coarse salt sprinkled on top.
The fries thin but pulpy, delicately enlivened by flakes of Parmesan cheese.
After this savory dish, I am ready for one of their plated desserts. I order the Molten Cake Thingy Everybody Has ($10), a warm Valrhona Manjari 64% chocolate paste that treasures a hot truffle inside and comes topped with raspberry ice cream.
The presentation is impeccable: a three layer composition, with a dark, warm base surmounted by a pink creamy ball crowned with a caramel brittle.
As my spoon touches the spongy walls of this chocolate tower, its liquid center starts bleeding, lavishing its intense aroma all around.
The chilled berry accompaniment is really spotless: its perfect consistency reminds me of my favorite fruit gelato and pairs elegantly the bittersweet of the cake.
In four spoonfuls my dessert is gone. For $10, it could have been a little more substantial… at least I had the steak before.
D Bar Desserts, 1475 E 17th Ave., Denver, CO www.dbardesserts.com